I will begin with a few words of caution. This is free-range territory, so expect to come across livestock on the road. Also, be wary of deer, coyote and javelina, which are common to this area. And because it is a desert, it can be hot and dry any time of the year with very limited shade. Dress appropriately and bring twice the water you think you will need. There are long stretches with no cell phone service.
Summer thunderstorms out here can be deadly. Do not ride into them. Turn around and go back, or, if you are at a place with shelter, wait it out. The washes can flood in an instant even though it is not raining where you are. Pay attention to the warning flood gauges. .
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| River Road or FM170. One Great Ride. |
Many riders consider Texas highway FM 170 (or “River Road” as it's known) the best ride in the state. It mostly follows the Rio Grande, from the Terlingua/Study Butte junction where FM 170 goes west off FM 118, through about 68 miles of beautiful and varied West Texas terrain to the town of Presidio. This day’s journey begins with a home-cooked breakfast at India’s Restaurant. I have eaten here several times over the past two weeks. Aside from being a fine spot for delicious food, it's also a great place to chat with the locals, who will fill you in on the local news. It is not uncommon to be invited to sit and chat while you eat. Everyone is on a first-name basis, and I too have been admitted to that club.
You go in, or sit outside under the porch roof, get your own coffee, tea or soda, and shortly after either India or William will take your order. William’s “Sid’s Breakfast Burrito” is one of the finest I have ever eaten. I have not mustered the courage to try the large size yet; the medium is already more than I can eat. Riley gets a treat too when I take some home to him. William: Riley loves it too.
Now to get some wind in my face. I turn west onto FM 170, which for the first few miles takes me over rolling hills with wide sweeping turns. At about the four-mile point, I take a half right-hand turn to the Terlingua Ghost Town, an abandoned village of small stone houses built for the quicksilver (mercury) mine workers. These ruins have been in disuse since the '30s. 
Another site of note is the cemetery. It is fantastic for photographs or just meandering through. There is no organization to the layout; gravesites were just placed where they would fit. Most are piles of stones marked by wooden crosses. Some are more formal adobe and plaster crypts. Many have candle jars and coins placed on them indicating recent visits by people remembering those who have passed on.
Just past the cemetery is the Starlight Restaurant, which serves good food, drinks, and usually has live music – the kind you can listen to while eating. Outside of the Starlight is Terlingua’s famous Porch. It's great place to sit in the shade, drink a beer, and chat with the very friendly locals and tourists. In the evening it offers a clear view of the Chiso Mountains at sunset.Getting back onto FM 170 heading west is more great riding. Again, rolling hills, sweeping turns and now some straight stretches through the desert. Around the 19-mile mark we come to the town of Lajitas, a small resort-type town, complete with patio-style restaurants, a nice bar, and shops all on a boardwalk. Lajitas also has a golf course, but since riding is my game, I just pass through with plans to return for a closer look.
Two or so more miles of westward travel brings us to the Contrabando movie set. It is a Mexican-style village made for movie use. Several movies were filmed here, including “The Streets of Laredo,” one of my favorite westerns. A definite highlight for this western movie lover. This movie is part of the Larry McMurtry “Lonesome Dove” stories. Stop and walk around, especially if you like western movies.
The road beyond the Contrabando site has ample hills, and on some you don’t see the road ahead until you are over the steep crest. Wow, a rush for sure. It's like riding a steerable rollercoaster for 40 miles with no line to wait in.
This part of the road takes you through desert canyons with tight turns and ride-through hills, and short stretches of flat desert terrain. One of the stretches had a group of dips – time to speed up a bit and get a tickle as you go over the tops.
Stop in Presidio, have a snack or lunch, refuel and go back the way you came for twice the fun. Then stop at the Porch for some friendly conversation. After you take this ride I am sure you will agree that it is one of the best in Texas, if not the USA.
